Tag Archive | Foundation paper piecing

Feathered Star , Block Thirteen of the Round the Year Quilt

Block 13 Feathered Star

The Feathered Star

is one of the prettiest traditional star blocks. It looks deceptively difficult to piece, but comes together beautifully, everything falling in place just so! While drafting it for Block 13 in the Round the Year Quilt, I could avoid the ‘y’ seam altogether by a small change in the paper piecing pattern, making it easier still! Like all other blocks of this block of the month quilt, this also is drafted as a 15″ paper pieced circle and set in an 18″ (finished) square.

The templates and the Instructions for the Blocks can be downloaded from the links at the end of this post. You can access the patterns for the other blocks of this quilt from links on this page.

There are two template files, one containing the paper piecing templates. You may also wish to download individual templates for the background and other pieces , I worked with strips and rectangles.

Print the Templates Files with your printer settings on 100% or actual size, in portrait mode. One way to check if your templates are printing correctly is to check if the ¼” seam allowance is correct! Check that on a straight edge, not on a corner or a curve! 

Cut out the templates.

Print the Instructions File and keep at hand; you can refer to this blogpost for step by step instructions with pictures.

 Fabric Requirement

For the block in the Dusk Colourway, I have used 3 shades of blue ( other than the background) and 4 contrasting colours in the yellow-to- orange range.

I suggest you pin a slip of paper with the fabric code on your chosen fabrics. You could also press a small scrap of freezer paper with the code on the fabric. I also recommend starching your fabric crisply before cutting it.

Fabric Coding for the Feathered Star

 

Fabric

Fabric Code

Background*

Star

Feathers

Wedges*

Total pieces in block
Light blue 3 3 rectangles 10″ x 6″ 3
Light-medium blue 2 2.5″ x 10″ 2″ x 20″ (2 strips) 3.5″ x 20″ 27
Medium blue 4 2″ x 20″ (2 strips) 3.5″ x 20″ 30
Deep blue 1 3 rectangles 10″ x 6″ 2.5″ x 10″ 6
Yellow 8 1.75″ x 14″ 6
Gold 5 2″ x 20″ (4 strips) 42
Light orange 7 3″ x 15″ 6
Deep orange 6 3″ x 15″ 6

* Cutting Instructions

NOTE: I have italicized the names of the templates after `Z’, to avoid confusion. 

Background (Optional)

Use Templates AK, AL and AM (from the Individual templates File) to cut background in fabric#3. Label and keep aside.

Now use same Templates to cut Fabric#1 background rectangles, labeling them AN, AO and AP respectively.

You may want to appliqué the completed circle on the square. In this case, the option is to join the longer sides of two rectangles measuring 9.75″ x 19″ in fabrics #3 and #1 to make a square 19″ and put away till your circle is pieced.

Wedges

Cut as follows –

From the strip 3.5″ x 20″ of Fabric#2 cut and label as follows

3 pieces using Template AI for AI, Y and AA

3 pieces using Template AJ for AJ, Z and AB

From the strip 3.5″ x 20″ of Fabric#4 cut and label as follows

3 pieces using Template AI for AG, AC, AE ( Note – AI is identical to AG)

3 pieces using Template AJ for AH, AD, AF ( Note – AJ is identical to AH)

This is how I cut the wedges. I traced my templates AI and AJ on freezer paper.

I layered the two 3.5″ x 20″ strips of fabric #2 and #4, both wrong sides up. I pressed the freezer paper templates on the wrong side and cut the strips as shown in the pic below. If you do not have freezer paper, simply pin plain paper templates on the strips!

Cutting the wedges. Remember to keep the wrong side of the fabric UP when using printed templates which are mirror images!

Piecing Instructions

I like to sort the templates according to the shape and then colour coding ( if possible) for maximum efficiency and least confusion, before I start my piecing. This makes chain piecing simpler too, as the fabric can be stacked in piles in the correct order, accordingly.

General tips on paper piecing for these blocks have been given in this blogpost.

Piecing the Star

Strip chain piece the inner star in 4 lots .:

A, I and Q

E, M and U

B, J and R

F, N and V



Piecing the feathers

Sort the templates in 4 lots as follows.

C, G and W

D, H and X

K, O and S

L, P and T.

Note – I have provided an individual template for the diamond at the corner of the feathers. You may like to cut 6 diamonds and keep them aside before you start piecing the feathers.

After experimenting with strip chain piecing and rectangles, I tried the following method, which I found to be most efficient way to piece the feather row.

Trim the previous piece ¼” beyond seam line. Line up incoming strip parallel to the template. Sew on the seam line.

For sewing triangles facing opposite diections, line up the incoming strip so…


… as viewed from the printed paper side. Sew on seamline.

Open the strip. It will lie at an angle to the template.

The opened up strip covers the entire equal-sided triangle.

( This does not work with any triangles other than those where all three sides are equal, as in this case.)

Now trim the strip at the edge of the template. The triangular piece is fully covered …and a seam allowance is also available!

Trim along the paper edge! Simple!

As viewed from the right side:

Once you get the hang of it, the piecing is quick!

Add the next strip as before.

It is better to work simultaneously on templates from each of the lots, as the direction of the ‘slant'( after cutting ) will alternate with each seam. The strips can be switched around accordingly.

Caution: When you reach the diamond ( piece #7) towards the end of templates D, H, L, P…etc, trim the strip after only covering the full diamond piece. As mentioned earlier, I have also provided an individual template for cutting the diamond pieces. You can use these ( instead of strips) when you reach this step.

Once the feathered rows are done, we are ready to assemble the block.

After the problems I had with Block Twelve, I `mock assemble’ the block at every stage to ensure all is proceeding well.

Assembly Instructions

This Master Template is used as a guide to assembly. Remember, it is a mirror image of the final block, which means it shows the block from the back (printed paper) side.


Step 1: Assembling the inner star ‘points’

Join A to B; I to J; Q to R;

Sew E to F; M to N and U to V.

Removing the paper makes this step easier, as the seams can be ‘locked’.


End of Step 1:

You end up with 6 pieced diamonds which will make up the inner star.

The inner unfeathered star

Step 2: Feathering the wedges

Sort the templates shapewise and then colourwise and sew the feather rows to the respective wedges. Just remember, the colour on the feathers and the wedges should be the same!

First the shorter feathered rows to the `blunt-edged’ wedges!

Sew W to AI ; C to Y; G to AA.

Sew K to AC; O to AE and S to AG

First join the feathers to the outer wedges.,,here are the blunt wedges joined to the ‘short’ feathers

Block 13 Feathered Star Assembly

The ‘blunt’ wedges with the ‘short’ feathers

Now the ‘pointy’ wedges to the longer feathered rows (with the diamonds)

Sew D to Z ; H to AB; X to AJ

Sew L to AD; P to AF and T to AH.

Block 13 Feathered Star Assembly

The ‘pointy’ wedges get their feathers ( with a diamond)…

Here they are, all done! Did I tell you it is very important to press after each step?

Almost done!


..as is to arrange them again as per the final design to ensure there is no mix up anywhere!?

Step 3 : Joining the feathered wedges to the inner star ‘diamond shapes’

We are almost there, ready to give the inner star its feathers.

Sew AB to CY; EF to G.AA ; UV to W.AI

Sew IJ to K.AC; MN to O.AE and QR to S.AG

Block 13 Feathered Star

These look a mess! But just one more step and…


Step 4

I again arrange the templates assembled so far to ensure all is going well.

I am down to the last step that I will be doing for now!


Join ABCY to DZ; EFG.AA to H.AB; UVW.AI to X.AJ

IJK.AC to L.AD; MNO.AE to P.AF; QRS.AG to T.AH


And I am done!!

Twinkle , twinkle feathered star!


Our 6 star wedges are ready.

Final Assembly

This is a step I am skipping for now.

You could join the 6 wedges to complete your circle and appliqué it to 19″ square. Trim to 18.5″ after the appliqué.

Block 13 Feathered Star Assembly

Assemble the six wedges to complete your feathered star in a circle and applique to piced square

OR

Join to background pieces as follows, (referring to the star centre) before finally joining them:

Wedge with U to AK; wedge with A to AL; wedge with E to AM; wedge with I to AN; wedge with M to AO; wedge with Q to AP.

Block 13 Feathered Star Assembly

Block 13 Feathered Star Assembly

Join individual wedges to background pieces …

Join these along the straight lines follwing the Master Template to obtain your feathered star!

Some people have asked for the Master Template in colour.

Block 13 Feathered Star

This is a mirror image, what is on the right (in the block front )appears on the left and vice versa. The number in brackets stands for the Fabric Code.

Don’t forget to share your Feathered Star on my Facebook Page Patchwork of My Life! Click on the link on the right to like my page and gain access to it.

I must not forget to mention Prabha Mathew who tested the block for me and pointed out some errors in the original pattern, which I have tried to take care of! Thank you so much, Prabha 🙂

You can download the patterns for all the blocks of this quilt from the Round the Year Quilt Page on this blog.

Have fun!

1. Block 13 Feathered Star Instructions including Fabric Requirement and Master Template

2, Block 13 Feathered star Paper piecing Templates Revised

3. Block 13 Feathered star Individual templates

Block Twelve Dozens Squared, Round the Year Quilt

This is a block that has given me much heartache , and that story deserves its very own blogpost! Meanwhile, here it is, Dozens Squared, the twelfth block of the Round the Year Block of the Month Quilt.

Block Twelve Dozens Squared, Round the Year Quilt BOM (Rainbow)

 

The block finishes at 18.5″ square (including seam allowance), with a 15″ inset circle. It is partly paper foundation pieced; the templates and instructions  can be downloaded in PDF format from the links at the end of this post.

What’s in a name?

This Block 12 of the Round the Year BOM Quilt is inspired by the beautiful Jack’s Chain block. I couldn’t decide what I wanted to call it. I thought of something to do with 9-patches and then Jill’s Chain! But then I counted the number of pieces in the circle – 144. It could not be chance that Block Twelve should contain twelve twelves, could it? The name would have to to have some reference to this, I thought. No way I was going to call it ` Gross’, which is the correct nomenclature for a dozen dozens! Dozens Squared sounded better, also as the dozens would in any case be inset in a square!

 

Fabric Requirement

The fabric requirement for the block is given for the Dusk colourway. I have scrapped the block that I made in the Dusk colours (not this) – I thought it looked quite ugly (gross?)!

Block Twelve Dozens Squared, Round the Year Quilt – Dusk – Fabric Code

 

Fabric Colour

Fabric Code

Background

Nine patches

Centre

Spiked wedges

Circle edge wedges

Lightest blue

1

19″ square OR
10.5″ x 25″
Two 6″ squares 2.25″ x 8″
Medium Blue

4

Two 6″ squares 2.25″ x 8″   Two 2″ x 8″
Medium-dark blue

3

Two 6″ squares 2.25″ x 8″   Two 2″ x 8″
Deep blue

2

  2.25″ x 20″ 2.5″ x 36
2.0″ x 36″
Two 2″ x 8″
Yellow

8

2.25″ x 6″
Gold

6

2.5″ x 12″
2″ x 12″
Light Orange

7

2.5″ x 12″
2″ x 12″
Orange

5

2.5″ x 12″
2″ x 12″

 

Please refer to the downloadable Instructions File, if you want detailed cutting instructions!

Printing Instructions

Please remember to print the Templates file with your printer
setting at 100% or Actual size in portrait mode. Cut out the paper piecing Templates.

I recommend printing also the Instructions file and keeping the Master Template (provided in the Instructions File) at hand when assembling the block. A line drawing version of the Master Template is also included in the file (also a mirror image ). You can use colour pencils to experiment with your own colour combinations!

 

Piecing Instructions

The Nine-Patches Quick Method

Piece the six 9-patches A, B, C, D, E and F using the quick 9-patch method. The pictures I am showing here are for the rainbow block. You will start with 3 pairs of 6 inch squares.

 

 

For the Dusk version, team upthe squares in 3 pairs.

For the Dusk version, team up the squares in 3 pairs.

Note that we do not measure 2" from edge, but 1.75" from seamline!

Note that we do not measure 2″ from edge, but 1.75″ from seamline!

Similarly from the other seam!

Similarly from the other seam!

Quick NIne Patch Square

Sew to get two strip sets. Press to darker side – I chose blue here.

Quick Nine Patch Square

If you are doing the Dusk version, you would already be working with 6″ squares. This would be irrelevant!

 

Quick 9 patch squares

Pair up the strip sets. Careful! Check you have the right pairing!

Sew on the shorter sides.

Sew on the shorter sides.

Quick 9 patch squares

Cut 1.75″ from both the seams…

Quick 9-patche squares

…and sew the centre strip to the double strip sets from the sides

For the block we need 9-patches which finish at 3.5″, so we will need to trim these to 4″,  with centre square remaining at 1.5″.

Quick 9-patch

Mark the centre ( of the centre square!) and trim to 2″ from it on all sides.

You could also use the template A to match and trim the 9-patches to size.

Quick 9 -patch squares

Done!

Piecing the Centre

I would suggest cutting the strips into triangles before you start piecing. Lay the 60 degree line in alternating directions as you cut the triangles – remember to leave 1/4″ on the top before you cut in the opposite direction.

Block Twelve Dozens Squared, Round the Year Quilt

I used strips left over from previous blocks;  in paper piecing, one need not be accurate in cutting! The next set of triangles will be cut by changing the ruler direction.

 

If doing the Rainbow block, I may mention that a 6″ x 2.25″ yields 3 traingles quite comfortably. I used 8 different colours for the centre.

The pieced centre triangle templates from the Dusk block

The pieced centre triangle templates from the Dusk block

In no time, you would have the templates S, T, U, V, W and Xpieced. Put these aside.

Spiked Wedges

Now we come to the 12 spiked wedges G, H, I…Q, R.

Each of these wedges has 5 pieces. Before you start the actual piecing, I suggest you pin pieces # 1  (2.5″ x  1.5″) and #2 (HST 2.5″) on all the templates. This helps save time in sorting colours and sizes of the upcoming pieces!

IMG_1648

Block 12 Dozens Squared

Chain piecing must be the greatest innovation in sewing, don’t you think? In no time we are ready for piece#3, (which is the largest piece, at 2″ x 4″)

Align the corner of the rectangle to the busiest corner on the template!

Align the corner of the rectangle to the busiest corner on the template!

Note the angle and placement of  the piece.

Note the angle and placement of the rectangular piece. It should completely cover the area under Section #3 when opened out.

Trim the excess seam allowance.

Step 2 continued... trim to seam allowance!

Step 2 continued… I like to trim to upcoming seam allowance – 1/4″ beyond the seamline!

Press open. Piece #4 is easy! Just align the long edges of the two pieces and sew!

I like to trim the just stitched piece to just 1/4" beyond the upcoming seam line!

Add piece #4

Chain piecing, as usual!

Piece#4 chained in place

Piece#4 chained in place

Block 12 Dozens Squared

We are ready for the last step – sewing piece #5 – a rectangle 2″ x 2.5″ ( I used 1.5″ x 2.5″ rectangles, but they made a tight fit, so I have changed the width to 2″.) Again, please check the rectangle placement before sewing to ensure you have the paper section fully covered.

IMG_1698

 

All our piecing is done, all that remains is the assembly!

 

Assembly Instructions

Assemble the block, using the Master Template as a guide. Remember, the Master Template is a mirror image and shows the block as it would look from the printed paper (reverse) side. As seen here, what is on left appears on right and vice versa.

 

1. Sew the spiked wedge (halves) to either side of the respective 9-patches.

Sew G and J to opposite sides of A; M and P to opposite sides of C; H and K to opposite sides of E;

Sew N and Q to opposite sides of B; I and L to opposite sides of D; O and R to opposite sides of F.

2. Sew the centre pieced triangles to the 9-patch template sets.

Sew S to GAJ; V to MCP; T to HEK; W to NBQ; U to IDL and X to OFR.

3. Sew the respective circle edge wedges to the just assembled template sets. Here is some auditioning of fabric for the circle edges…

Block 12 Dozzens Squared Round the Year Block 12 Dozzens Squared Round the Year Block 12 Dozzens Squared Round the Year Block 12 Dozzens Squared Round the Year

…before I settle on this!

Block 12 Dozzens Squared Round the Year

4. Final Assembly

Option 1


Join background pieces AE1/ AH1 to wedge set containing A and B;

Join the background pieces  AF1/AI1 to wedge set containing F and E;

Join background pieces  AG1/AJ1 to wedge set containing D and C.

Join in threes – pieced set AE1, AF1 and AG1 to form one half; and the other 3 pieced sets to form the other half

Join the two halves to form the full block.

Option 2

Join the pieced sets to form the full circle and appliqué it to the background square using your favourite method.

Trim to 18.5″ square.

I am giving the Fabric Requirements for the Rainbow block in a separate blogpost.

Meanwhile, here are the links to the downloadable PDF Instrcutions and Tempalte Files for the block.

1.BLOCK 12 DOZENS SQUARED Instructions

2. BLOCK 12 Dozens Squared Dusk PAPER PIECING TEMPLATES

 

Blue Aster – Block Eleven of the Round the Year Quilt

Blue Aster Quilt Block Round the Year Quilt Block 11The Blue Aster is Block 11 of the Round the Year Quilt. The 15″ pieced circle is inset in an 18″ ( finished) square.

The foundation paper pieced block is very quick to piece. The centre introduces inset or y seams for the first time in this BOM.  The block was tested for me by the lovely Anuradha Ramesh, who also tested the Sapphire Fire block!

If you want the patterns of the previous ten blocks of this quilt, you can find all the links on the Round the Year Quilt page. The Templates and Instructions for this block can be downloaded in printable pdf format from the links  at the end of this post.

Fabric Requirement

In the Dusk colourway, the block uses 4 shades of blue for the petals besides some small scraps of yellows and oranges.

Fabric Coding for Blue Aster

 

Fabric For Petals For Centre ( pieces# 3 & 4on I to L) For Edges
Light Blue

1

2.25″ x 7.5″ ( 8 pieces)
Medium Light Blue

2

2.25″x 6.5″ ( 8 pieces)
Medium Dark Blue

3

2.5″x 7.5″ ( 4 pieces)
Deep Blue

4

2.5″x 6.5″ ( 4 pieces)
Deep Orange

5

1.75″ x 5″ 1.75″ x 2.5″ ( 8 pieces)
Light Orange

7

1.75″ x 5″ 1.75″ x 2.5″ ( 8 pieces)
Gold

8

1.75″ x 5″ 1.75″ x 2.5″ ( 8 pieces)
Yellow

6

1.75″ x 5″ 1.75″ x 2.5″ ( 8 pieces)

 

 Printing Instructions

  1. Print the Templates File with your printer settings at 100% or actual size in portrait mode.
  2. Print and keep a copy of the Instructions File for ready reference.
  3. Cut out the paper piecing templates.

Piecing and Assembly Instructions

1. Follow the step by step Instructions for best utilization of your fabric to piece templates A to H.

2. Piece templates I to L

The Master Template is a mirror image – the paper pieced block from the printed paper side!

 

3. Follow the Master template to join the templates as follows:

Join A to B; Join C to D; Join E to F; Join G to H. You can press seams open to reduce bulk. (I originally did, but then sewed a couple of them to one side with the next seam. I think I  will never be able to sew with seams pressed open!)

We now encounter inset ot `y’ seams at the next step. You may refer to the step by step instructions if you are uncertain how to proceed.

Begin at the pointed end of the wedges, leaving ¼” for insetting seam to join AB to I at A1 ; join CD to J At C1, join EF to K at E1 and join GH to L at G1.

Now match the seams at the centre and join IAB to JCD.

Similarly, join KEF to LGH.

Finally join the two halves to make your full flower.

Applique the circle to an 18.5″ background square to complete your full block 11, Blue Aster. I recommend taking a larger square and trimming it to size.

 Step by Step Instructions

For general tips on paper piecing for the blocks in this BOM, you can look at this post I published some time back.

It is a good idea to pin when handling large or unwieldy fabric pieces!

Pin the Fabric#1 strips on the templates I, J, K and L and keep aside.

You may have noticed that we cut only 4 pieces  of the medium and dark blue fabric, whereas they are used in 8 places each! One thing I hate about paper piecing is the amount of fabric one wastes. So, this is how I found a way out, without complicating the cutting instructions!

We `prepare’ templates A to H for piecing.

Pin the rectangular piece of Fabric#3 on piece A1, C1, E1 and G1, aligning one long edge of the fabric ¼” beyond seamline between piece#1 and #3 on the template(s).

Pin for 1/4″ seam, letting the excess fabric hang out

Trim the excess fabric piece.

The excess fabric is trimmed away …

Pin the excess pieces of fabric at piece#1 on templates B, D, F and H.

… and used on the other 4 templates!

Fold the template at seam line between pieces # 1 and #2 on all the templates A to H and trim the fabric beyond the seam line towards circular edge (adding ¼” seam allowance).

I have discovered that trimming to the seam allowance BEFORE piecing makes life easier!

We are ready to start piecing templates A to H. Remember the wrong side of the fabric should touch the paper. Also, travel ¼” beyond the seam line when piecing.

Initially, I used strips of the yellow- orange fabrics to piece the small wedge to the `petals’, but later concluded that piecing with the 1.75″ x 2.5″ rectangles was more efficient and facilitated chain piecing. I am not giving a picture so that I can avoid confusion!

Chain piece all templates A to H up to piece #4.

Add the fifth piece only to templates A , C, E and G, aligning one edge of the fabric as we did for piece #1.

Now fold back the paper on the incoming seam line like in the picture below. Do not worry about the paper getting torn at the seam.

Using one rectangle to piece two long triangles!

Trim, allowing for a ¼” seam.

Don’t throw away that trimming!

This excess fabric piece will be used for piece#5 on templates B,D, F and H.

Use it here!

Add piece#6 on all the templates A to H. With this, templates B, D, F and H are pieced and can be kept aside. Proceed to finish piecing templates A, C , E and G; and I to J.

When piecing I to J templates: first sew the respective 1.75″ x 5″ strip at piece #3 on each of the templates. Trim off and keep the excess fabric piece for sewing at place#4 on the other templates as required. 

TThis block is perhaps the quickest to cut and piece!

 Assembly Instructions

Flip the pieced templates to the printed side and arrange the templates using the Master Template as a guide.

Pin templates A to B; C to D; E to F and G to H, taking care to ensure you have the right edges together…

Ensure you have the correct edges together!

 

…and sew. I pressed open the seams ( temporarily, as the final picture will confirm!), but you could also press them downwards, towards the edge.

Remove the excess paper from the seams.

It has been easy so far. Now comes some not-so-simple sewing!

We are ready to join AB to I, CD to J, Ef to K and GH to L.

Pin the edges on the alignment markers. Begin the seam, sewing from centre to edge, on the seam line, leaving the ¼” seam allowance at the top unstitched.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is how it looks from the other side…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At the end of this, you will have 4 joined templates, IAB, JCD, KEF and LGH. We are ready to join these in pairs.

Again we begin sewing at the centre. If your centre looks good, the rest of the block looks good too!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Start sewing from the corner of the centre and stop short of the end by ¼” , just where the `petals’ begin.

Now align the `petals’ and sew  down the straight edges out to the circumference.

 

You can start this seam from the corner, including the 1/4″ shown left unstitched in this picture. I went back and sewed that bit afterwards.

 

One half is ready!

There actually no points to match, so everything falls in place neatly!

Similarly join the other pair KEF to LGH.

 

Now to join the two halves…again we begin at the centre, matching the centre seams, and leaving ¼” at both ends.

Again, begin at the centre…this is the only time you have to match points!

 

We are down the last two seams!

… the final seams are down the petals to the circle edge.

 

Turn it around!

Press the seams.

Flip over and admire your Blue Aster.

Applique your circle to a 19″ square. Trim to 18.5″ square.

You can click on the links below to download the pdf pattern for this simple block  designed by me ( if anyone else has also had the same idea, my apologies for claiming it  – as far as I know, it is an original!) .

1. BLOCK 11 BLUE ASTER Paper Piecing Templates  Round the Year Quilt

2. Block 11 Blue Aster Instructions Round the Year Quilt.

 

Chakra – Block Ten, Round the Year Quilt

Chakra, Block Ten Round the Year Quilt

I have revised the Instructions File for this Block on 26th January 2015. Please print the fresh instructions if downloaded before that date.
This block has to be my absolute favourite. For one, it is a tribute to my country, India, on our Republic Day falling on 26th January. Secondly, it is designed by me, not based on any other quilt block that I have seen.

The Ashok Chakra, which is the inspiration for this block, is at the centre of India’s national flag. It is taken from the edicts of the great emperor Ashok, who ruled over almost the entire sub- continent, in the third century  B.C.  I quote from Wikipedia : The “Ashoka Chakra” … is the wheel of the law of dharma. Truth or satya, dharma or virtue ought to be the controlling principle of those who work under this flag. Again, the wheel denotes motion. There is death in stagnation. There is life in movement. India should no more resist change, it must move and go forward. The wheel represents the dynamism of a peaceful change.

 I tried to be true to the proportions of the Ashok Chakra on our flag. The block, a 15″ square set in an 18″ circle, is the tenth block in the Round the Year BOM quilt. It is surprisingly easy to piece the foundation paper piecing way, and assembly is also simple enough. (Except that you have to be really fond of hand appliqué to add those half circles using the method I employed!)

The links for Instructions and Templates for this pattern are given at the end of this post. For the other block patterns, please go here.

Fabric Code DesignThe Chakra (Wheel)

As mentioned above, the block finishes at 18″ square with a 15″ inset circle.

I have used four shades of blue (coded 1, 6, 5, 4 from light to dark) and four contrasting colours ranging from yellow to orange ( coded 2, 8, 7 and 3 ) for the block in the Dusk colourway.

For this block, I have assembled the full circle and plan to appliqué it to the background. A background template is, therefore, not provided. The block is mainly paper pieced with some appliqué for the half circles. (You could fuse these if you have access to Heat ‘n Bond Red or equivalent; which case, do not cut fabric** for the half circles at this stage.)

Fabric Requirement

Fbric Colour

Fabric code

Outer Ring

(3″ x 1.5″)

Middle Ring

Inner Ring

Inner Circle

Background

Count your pieces

Lightest Blue

1

2.5″ x 30″

(Cut 6 rectangles 2.5″x 5″)

6 rectangles 1″ x 2.5″

19″ square

13

Light-Medium Blue

6

2.5″ x 30″

(Cut 6 rectangles 2.5″x 5″)

6 rectangles 1″ x 2.5″

12

Medium-Dark Blue

5

2.5″ x 30″

(Cut 6 rectangles 2.5″x 5″)

6 rectangles 1″ x 2.5″

12

Deep Blue

4

2.5″ x 30″

(Cut 6 rectangles 2.5″x 5″)

6 rectangles 1″ x 2.5″

12

Yellow

2

3″ x 9″

(cut into 6 rectangles)

1.25″ x 55″ ( Cut into 11 rect 1.25″x 5″)

**Rectangle 4″x 6″ for six circles 1.5″ diam.

3.5″ diameter circle

24

Gold

8

3″ x 9″

(cut into 6 rectangles)

**Rectangle 4″x 6″ for six circles 1.5″ diam.

1.5″x 27.5″

( Cut into 11 rectangles 1.5″x 2.5″)

23

Light Orange

7

3″ x 9″

(cut into 6 rectangles)

**Rectangle 4″x 6″ for six circles 1.5″ diam.

1.5″x 33″

( Cut into 13 rectangles 1.5″x 2.5″)

25

Deep Orange

3

3″ x 9″

(cut into 6 rectangles)

1.25″ x 65″ ( Cut into 13 rect 1.25″x 5″)

**Rectangle 4″x 6″ for six circles 1.5″ diam.

25

Printing Instructions

Please note that I revised the pattern template `naming’ after piecing my block. Don’t let the piece numbering on the pictures confuse you.

Print first two pages of the Instructions File for ready reference.

Chakra, Block Ten Round the Year Quilt

Cutting the fabric strips

Print Paper piecing templates file at 100% (or actual size ) in portrait mode and cut out the templates.

You can decide if you wish to use  the **circle templates and print the file as and when you need it. .
I printed the 1″ circle templates on freezer paper.

If you are interested in English paper piecing or regular piecing for this block, I have also provided the option of individual templates in a separate file.

Piecing Instructions

Piece the inner ring templates A,B, C and D.

Make piles of the rectangles for the inner ring – all four shades of blue and two shades of the contrast fabric (light orange and gold) are used here. Reduce the stitch length on your sewing machine, so that the paper can be torn off easily once you are done.

Chakra, Block Ten Round the Year Quilt

Pile the strips for easy access

The strips in the inner ring are ready at less than a ¼”. Fold the paper on the incoming seam and trim the seam allowance to slightly less than ¼”, before you join the next strip.

Chakra, Block Ten Round the Year Quilt

Fold the paper template away on next seamline and trim the seam allowance to 1/4″ before sewing the next piece.

Piece the middle ring templates E, G. I. K. M. and O. Here, we will use the other two shades of the contrast fabric (deep orange and yellow) with the four shades of blue.

Again, trim the seams before you join the next rectangle.

Chakra, Block Ten Round the Year Quilt

The outer spokes of the wheel under construction

Piece the outer ring templates F, H, J, L, N and P. It is possible to chain strip piece these, which is what I did.

Chakra, Block Ten Round the Year Quilt

I used strips to chain piece the outer ring. It is as easy to use rectangles.

Prepare the twenty four 1″ circles for appliqué. I must be a glutton for punishment, as I prepared the circles using the pulled thread method and appliquéd them by hand!

Chakra, Block Ten Round the Year Quilt

Cutting 6 circles at one go using freezer paper templates.

Chakra, Block Ten Round the Year Quilt

Cutting twenty four 1″ freezer paper circles using the Circle templates… the most tedious part of this bock!

Chakra, Block Ten Round the Year Quilt

Iron the paper circles at centre of the fabric circles.

Chakra, Block Ten Round the Year Quilt

The ‘pulled thread” method for preparing the circles for applique. Note the long ‘tail’ on both ends of the running stitch.

Applique the circles to outer edge of pieced wedges F, H, J, L, N and P referring to the colour design.

Note only half the circle is visible in the finished piece. Tack the circle to the edge of the corresponding template piece, such that the midpoint of the circle falls on the centre of the seam line at the outer edge of the piece. About ¼’ of the circle will stick out and beyond the template. Applique it in place using an invisible stitch.

Chakra, Block Ten Round the Year Quilt

Tack the circles on the middle ring (in correct order!) matching the centre of circle to seam line.

I love to hand appliqué so I really enjoyed my afternoon doing this step!

You could possibly machine appliqué the circles, if you are confident about getting such a small circle right by machine. You could also fuse one inch fabric circles in place if you have access to double sided fusing like Heat ‘n Bond (Red) or equivalent.

Or you could even omit the half circles altogether!

Arrange everything in order of assembly and gloat!!!

Assembly Instructions

Chakra Round the Year Quilt Master Template

Chakra Round the Year Quilt Master Template

Refer to the Master Template given here to assemble the block. Note it is a mirror image, and shows the block as it would look from the printed paper side.

Join E to F; G to H, I to J, K to L, M to N and O to P. ( The half circle should match the colour of the adjoining outer ring piece). I experimented with several methods to see what works best. The last method was the easiest and worked best!

First, I trimmed the seam allowance on the paper templates F, H, J, L N and P. I left the half circle on corresponding untrimmed and pinned the first pair at every possible point! (Do not attempt this, it added no value).

Chakra, Block Ten Round the Year Quilt

That paper is not necessary – remove it!

The paper kept getting in the way, so I removed it for the next pair. The pinning was the same and the circles were left intact. The circles got in the way of aligning the edges of the pieced templates – not recommended.

Chakra, Block Ten Round the Year Quilt

Those circle bits sticking out – trim them, BEFORE you join the two templates.

I trimmed the circles to the template edge…

Chakra, Block Ten Round the Year Quilt

Trim the circles like this!

…pinned and sewed another pair together.

Chakra, Block Ten Round the Year Quilt

Even so much pinning is not necessary. Keep only the pins to match the corners and one each at the seams.

Finally, I used just 5 pins, one each on the corners and three to match the seams. The seams abut against each other and join beautifully, without any additional pins. That is the one I did not take a picture of :-p. This gave me the smoothest curve! And this is what I recommend – trim the circles to the template edge, remove paper from outer ring templates and pin minimally.

The next step is to join the outer six wedges in threes.

Join EF to GH to IJ

Join KL to MN to OP

Before you do that, remove the extra paper on the seam allowance and press the seam outward. Pin at corners and at centre.

Chakra, Block Ten Round the Year Quilt

Three pins to have everything aligned. Note the paper removed from the seam at the `skirting’?

Next, join the innermost pieced rings in pairs.

Join A to B

Join C to D

Chakra, Block Ten Round the Year Quilt

The inner ring templates are joined in pairs while the outer in threes. Remove as much of the paper as you can – on at least alternate pieces.

Join AB to EFGHIJ

Join CD to KLMNOP.

This was surprisingly quick and did not need any pinning, as the seams worked as alignment markers.

Join the two circle halves.

Chakra, Block Ten Round the Year Quilt

Just one more seam and the circle is done, barring the centre piece.

Tada!!

Chakra, Block Ten Round the Year Quilt

Pretty, pretty!!!

Yes, I can see a couple of unmatched seams and plan to re-do those when I do the last steps, that is, firstly appliqueing the circle to the background and then finally to applique the centre circle Q1 (3″ diameter ready).

You can download the Instructions and the Template files from here. You would need Adobe Reader ( free online download available) on your computer to be able to open these files.

1. Block10 Chakra Instructions Round the Year Quilt

2. Templates for Foundation paper piecing Chakra Block 10 Round the Year Quilt

3. Circle Templates (1″)

4. Optional Templates for EPP/ regular piecing.

Spiked Dresden – Block Eight, Round the Year Quilt

Round the Year Quilt Block08 Spiked Dresden

We are already halfway through in this Block of the Month quilt!?! This Spiked Dresden is the eighth of the sixteen blocks that will make up the Round the Year Quilt. The block is 18″ square with a 15″ inset circle, like the other blocks of this quilt,

When I was designing this quilt, I wanted to include all the blocks that I loved, but was too lazy to make a whole quilt with. One on that list was this Spiked Dresden that I encountered on pinterest. When drafting the block for the quilt, I modified it a bit, including the wedges on which the blade points rest. I also thought this was a great block to introduce you to foundation paper piecing with freezer paper. You can also piece it with regular foundation paper and even without a foundation paper piecing template. Complicated as it looks, this particular Dresden  needs only as many seams as a regular Dresden! The blade, the spike and the wedge are all attached in one go. Those of you who are still apprehensive of attempting these blocks – this really is a piece of cake! This block was tested by fellow Desi Quilter Caroline Nagar and she had a lot of useful suggestions, which I have tried to incorporate here! Thanks, Caroline!

The downloadable Template files ( two this time) and the Instructions File can be found at the end of this post. So here we go!

Fabric requirement ( For Orange petalled Dresden)

Fabric  Blades Spikes  Outer Ring Centre Background**
#1 Dark grey 11” x 13”
#2 Light Grey 11” x 13”
#4,5,6,7 Blues 4” x 10” each 2” X 17” each 8” square
#8,9,10,11 Yellow, gold, light orange, deep orange 5” x 18” each
**For background – Use 11” x 25” if using single fabric.
You could also use a 19.5” square ( will be trimmed to 18.5″ after appliquéing circle).

Cut all fabric strips from width of fabric.

Step by Step Instructions

Round the Year Quilt Block 8 Spiked Dresden.1

Templates and Printing

  1. Print the Instructions file.
  2. Print the two templates files at 100% or actual size in portrait mode on A4 size freezer paper.

For printing on freezer paper, refer to this link.

  1. Template File 1 :

For the Template A Circle, please add an additional ¼” seam allowance to make total of ½” seam allowance.

For the Template B (Pieced Dresden quadrant), cut exactly to size. Use a scale and score lines on the printed lines on the semi circular template with a paper knife or any sharp edged object, to get sharp creases at each seam. I used my trusted friend Jack (the Ripper) for this. Take care so that you do not tear the paper. Sobana of thequiltbug.blogspot.com recently used the freezer paper method for piecing the Dresdens in her quilt. She recommends needle punching the seam lines – I am quite happy with creases!

Round the Year Quilt Block 8 Spiked Dresden.8

Important! We piece this Dresden using the freezer paper technique. If freezer paper is not available, regular foundation paper piecing may be done, in which case, you would need to print/trace the Template B to get 4 copies of it.

Template C (background) glue the two parts of the template on edge as indicated. You need four fabric pieces using this template.

Template File 2

Contains the templates D ( blade/ petal), E (spike) and F (outer ring piece).

 Cutting Instructions

We cut:

6 petals/ blades from each of 4 fabric strips (5”x 18”) using Template D= Total 24
6 spikes from each of 4 fabric strips (4”x 10”) using Template E = Total 24
6 outer ring pieces (wedges at base of petal point ) from each of 4 fabric strips ( 2” x 17” ) using Template F= Total 24

Placing the freezer paper template to cut fabric...

Placing the freezer paper template to cut fabric…

I cut 4 layers of fabric using the rotary cutter. I pressed the freezer paper template to the top layer and cut the fabric so…

Round the Year Quilt Block 8 Spiked Dresden.2

Cutting through four layers of fabric – 6 times to get 24 spikes

You could iron the freezer paper templates D, E, F  (for the petal/ blade, spike and outer ring piece) on card / stiff  paper and cut it out to make  sturdier, reusable templates.

Glue or iron the template to thisk card paper.

Glue or iron the template to thisk card paper.

Cut out the template accurately.

Cut out the template accurately.

Or you could use template plastic to trace and make stencils!

For the Spikes

Use  template E and cut like you did the petals. Press the pieces into half lengthwise, right side outside.

For the inner circle

A reminder! Cut a circle from the 8” square – use template A, add an additional ¼” allowance all around – the template gives only ¼” allowance and cut circle.

Template A - remember you need a 1/2" seam allowance

Template A – remember you need a 1/2″ seam allowance instead of the 1/4″ given here!

 Background.

11” x 25” if using single fabric.

You could also use a 19.5” square ( will be trimmed to 18.5after appliquéing circle).

Piecing and Assembly

Preparing the Blades/ Petals

Here is a great tutorial I referred to – http://www.vanessachristenson.com/2013/02/v-and-co-how-to-make-dresden-plate.html. So if anything is unclear here, that is where I suggest you head!

  1. Fold the petals lengthwise, right side inside and sew ¼” seam along the top edge.
Round the Year Quilt Block 8 Spiked Dresden.11

Fold into halfway and sew 1/4″ seam to form the pointed blade.

Remember to lock your stitch when you begin and end each seam, if your machine gives you the option, or you may end up with what happened here.

Round the Year Quilt Block 8 Spiked Dresden.14

Unlocking equals unravelling!

If your machine does not have the locking option, reduce the stitch length. I do not recommend a back-stitch, as it adds bulk.

Reduce stitch length to prevent unravelling.

Reduce stitch length to prevent unravelling.

2. You can chain stitch all the petals at one go!

Chain stitch the blades/ petals...

I chain stitched the blades/ petals…

...and garlanded my old Singer (circa 1935) with it!

…and garlanded my old Singer (circa 1935) with it!

  1. Clip apart the blades. Trim the seam to about 1/6” and clip the `pointy’ corner.

    Clip seam and point to reduce bulk and turn inside out

    Clip seam and point to reduce bulk and turn inside out

  2. Turn inside out. Use a toothpick or even your embroidery scissors to get a nice point.
Use a toothpick to get a nice, neat `point'!

Use a toothpick to get a nice, neat `point’!

5. Now comes the last step in getting the blades ready for piecing. Press them to ‘centre the point’. Lightly crease the blade on the vertical centre line as shown and align the centre seam line with it. Press ( not iron). A bit of spray starch does great here.

Round the Year Quilt Block 8 Spiked Dresden.19

Align the `point’ with the centre line.

Preparing the Spikes

Fold the spikes along the central vertical `spine’, right side outside, aligning the longer edges.  I do not recommend using your iron, you do not want a crease down the centre.

Piecing with Freezer Paper Template B

  1. Arrange all the petals, spikes and wedges in a circle for an auditioning. I am sorry I forgot to take a picture of this stage!
Mirror Image of the block to aid in freezer paper piecing.

Mirror Image of the block to aid in freezer paper piecing.

Any kind of foundation paper piecing can be confusing, as the final picture is a mirror image of what you began piecing with! I had this mirror image of my block to help me along the way!

Decide on a starting point, label the Blade#1, and start piecing anti-clockwise, if you are looking at the mirror image.

2. Now use the freezer paper template ( also used earlier) to piece the Dresden quarters. I find that using a template takes out the guesswork from piecing a Dresden – I needed sometimes 21 and at other times only 18 petals for a 20-petal Dresden, when I did not use paper piecing. The block lies flat and neat with this technique!

Remember we have to include the folded spike fabric at each seam, matching at the edge at the inner ( smaller) circle of the paper template. I used this turorial http://laren.blogspot.in/2012/04/tutorial-tuesday-spike-dresden-plate.html for adding the spikes.

3. Place the fabric pieces in this order on B1 section of the piecing template.
First –      Template E #1 right side up at outer edge of template. Press down to freezer paper.

Round the Year Quilt Block 8 Spiked Dresden.

Press wedge piece #1 on outer edge of B1. I have used a rectangle – you will be using Template F to get the pieces

Second – Blade #1 right side up, aligned at inner edge of template. The blade point should be about ¼” inside the edge of paper, at the final seam line.
Press on to freezer paper.

Press Blade#1 on place on B1

Press Blade#1 on place on B1

Third–        Spike#1.  Aligned at inner edge of template. The spike will stick out beyond the paper edge by about a ¼”. Pin to hold in place temporarily.

Round the Year Quilt Block 8 Spiked Dresden.

Spike #1 in place on B1. The upper edge of the spike `sticks out’ beyond the paper edge about 1/4″

Fourth –     Blade #2 face down, aligned over blade#1.  Repin as shown.

Round the Year Quilt Block 8 Spiked Dresden.

Blade #2 comes next, wrong side up. You can see the blue spike sticking out from under the blade on the top.

Fifth –         Wedge #2 comes face down, aligned over wedge #1.

Wedge #2 , wrong side up, aligned on Wedge#1 makes the fifth piece to line up on B1.

Wedge #2 , wrong side up, aligned on Wedge#1 makes the fifth piece to line up on B1.

Pin to hold everything in place. Fold away the freezer paper at crease ( seam line beteen B1 and B2) line, turn over.

Repin from this side, if you like. You will have ¼” seam allowance visible beyond the paper.

sew in 1/4" seam allowance visible beyond folded freezer paper template.

Sew in 1/4″ seam allowance visible beyond folded freezer paper template.

Sew just along the edge of the paper, taking care not to stitch over the paper. Trim the seam to ¼”.

Trim the seam to 1/4" (No, the fabric did not change colour - it is a different piece!)

Trim the seam to 1/4″ (No, the fabric did not change colour – it is a different piece!)

.Peel away the freezer paper and press open the seam.

You would not be able to press open the seam if piecing with regular foundation paper; this is one of the advantages of freezer paper piecing that I love!

Round the Year Quilt Block 8 Spiked Dresden.

Peel away freezer paper and press open seam.

Now press the pieced portion back on to the freezer paper. Press the spike open, so that it is centred between the two blades as below.

Round the Year Quilt Block 8 Spiked Dresden.

We are now ready to add the next pieces.

Note: If not using freezer paper, just sew on seam line on printed side of paper, as usual (without creasing, folding away the template.)

4. Place Spike #2 in place –  it has to stick out beyond edge of paper!

Pin spike#2 in place on Blade#2

Pin spike#2 in place on Blade#2

… Follow with blade #3 aligned with blade #2. Pin in place…

Blade #3 aligned on top of Blade #2, right sides together.

Blade #3 aligned on top of Blade #2, right sides together.

…and finally wedge #3. Flip around and sew.

Sew along paper edge as for the first two blades.

Sew along paper edge as for the first two blades.

Again trim and press open seam. Press down on freezer paper.

5. Join the next three pieces – Spike #3, Blade#4 and wedge #4.

6. Join 2 more sets, till Spike #5, Blade#6 and wedge #6.

Round the Year Quilt Block 8 Spiked Dresden.

Blades# 1 to 6 pieced and ready. Note there are only 5 spikes. Label nd put aside Spike#6.

7. Press and trim all sides to size, before you remove the freezer paper Template B totally.

8. Pin a post it note on Spike #6 with its name, and set it aside!

So one quadrant is pieced!

9. Now , we are ready to piece the 2nd quadrant. Proceed as for Quadrant 1. Before removing the freezer paper, sew Spike #6 in place between Quadrant 1 and Quadrant2, to get a semi circular ring.  Put aside Spike #12

The freezer paper template is reusable. But if you are piecing with regular printer paper, you need fresh templates for each of the other three quadrants.

Halfway stage in piecing the Dresden. Note the two spikes set aside ( in centre). They will join quadrants 3-4 and 4-1 respectively.

Halfway stage in piecing the Dresden. Note the two spikes set aside ( in centre). They will join quadrants 3-4 and 4-1 respectively.

10. Similarly piece Quadrants 3 and attach Spike# 12 between Seme-circle1-2 and Quadrant 3..

11. Finally piece Quadrant #4 and add spike #24 between the last blade (#24) and Blade#1 from the first quadrant to complete your ring!

Assembly

Applique the ring to your background.

Finally add the centre circle in place. The simplest way to do this is:  Machine tack ( largest stitch setting) about 1/8 to 1/6”  inside edge of the fabric circle, leaving a long length of thread on either side. Trim your template B to the seam line and iron it to the centre of the fabric. Now pull the thread to gather the fabric nicely over the paper circle. You have a perfect 7” circle. Pin in place over the centre of your block and appliqué by hand or machine. Trim away the background fabric behind the centre, and remove the freezer paper.

Here are the downloadable .pdf files with the instructions and templates. You need Adobe Reader (available for free online) on your computer, to be able to view these files.

1. Instructions Spiked Dresden Block08 of the Round the Year Quilt

2. Template File 1 Spiked Dresden Block08 of the Round the Year Quilt

3. Template File 2 Spiked Dresden Block08 of the Round the Year Quilt

You can access the links to the other blocks from this quilt here.

Southward Bound – Block Seven of the Round the Year BOM Quilt

 

Southward Bound Quilt Block

Cindy Ellerbe’s Test Block – Southward Bound

Which quilter does not have the Mariner’s Compass on her bucket list?

I have been in love with the block for ages; I had to include it as the seventh block in the Round the Year Quilt!

This off-centre Mariner’s Compass is a variation of the block, which is traditionally hand pieced or English paper pieced. However, this pattern employs a number of techniques, including foundation paper piecing, machine piecing and appliqué. It finishes at 18″ square, with a 15″ pieced circle. The printable pdf files instructions and templates for the block can be downloaded from the links at the end of this post.

The learning and inspiration for this block cane from this workshop…

Mariners Compass

…in this book

Quilt Skills

 

The blocks were drafted on Quilt Assistant free software and I used Primo PDF to make the pdf templates.

 Instructions

This is the Dusk colourway, the rays of the setting sun lighting up the needles on the right, as the darkness gathers from the East on the left. The name of the block came about as the pattern originally had a circle of geese , recding in size, flying upwards from both sides – I dropped them to simplify the design.

Fabric Requirement

Southward Bound Mariner's Compass Round the Year Quilt

Fabric Colour Code – Block Seven Southward Bound

 

Four shades of the main colour (blue) and four in a contrast colour way – yellow, gold, light and deep orange – are used here.

The fabric requirements given here are quite generous (according to me!), but you may want to cut fabric as you go along.

Fabric Code For templates A to H For templates I to P Wedges Q to X Centre YZ
Fabric #1
Deep blue
6″ x 42″Cut more as you need it.
6″ squares for the two large wedges at D4 and E2.6″ HSTs and QSTs can be used for the other wedges.
Cut QSTs from two 6″ squares. Alternatively, you can use scraps.
Fabric # 4 Blue 5″ x 35″ Cut strip 5″x 25″ lengthwise to get 2 strips 2.5″ x 25″ Use (freezer) paper templates to cut the wedge pieces
Fabric # 5 Light to medium blue 5″ x 35″ Cut strip 5″x 25″ lengthwise to get 2 strips 2.5″ x25″ Use ( freezer) paper templates to cut the wedge pieces
Fabric #6 Pale blue
2.5″x 18″3″ square
18″ x2.5″ Cut circle using template Z
Fabric #7, 8, 9 and 10 2.5″ x 17.5″ strips each 2.5′ x 15″ 2.5″ squares of each
Fabric # 1 and 2 For background cut 10″ x 19.5″ of each. Join along 19.5″ length to get a square 19.5″x 19.5″

 

Printing and Templates

Download the three files from the link at the end of this post, as follows:

Instructions Filecontains these instructions including the fabric requirement, piecing order and Master Template to be used as a guide for assembling the block.

Template File.1 containing paper piecing templates A to P . Print at actual size or 100% in portrait mode

Template File.2 containing templates Q to X and Z I suggest you print these on freezer paper, if available, at 100% or actual size. These are odd shaped pieces with circular edges, and I personally like to use freezer paper for accuracy for cutting these.

For printing on freezer paper, cut the freezer paper to your regular printer paper size (A4 or letter – approximately 8.5″ x 11″). Iron just the edges of the freezer paper (about ¼”) to a regular printer sheet, so that they are joined evenly, without any creases. Print as usual, taking care to insert the joined sheets in the printer so that the printing is on the freezer paper.

Printing on Freezer Paper

Place feezer paper, sticky side down on regular printer sheet. Iron about a 1/4″ on all edges.

Print the double sheet as usual.

Print the double sheet as usual.

 

You also need to cut a 2″ radius/ 4″ diameter circle on freezer paper/ stiff paper/ card ( for template Y).

Note : The background template AA and AB are not given for this block, as the circle is appliquéd on to the square.

 

Southward Bound Mariner's Compass Round the Year Quilt

Master Template – Southward Bound Mariner’s Compass Round the Year Quilt

 

This  diagram is the Master Template that will help you in assembling the block – remember this is is a mirror image. It shows you how your block will look from the printed paper side, not the fabric side, when assembled. It is included in the Instructions File.

Piecing

The block is partly foundation paper pieced. I have blogged about the paper piecing patterns for this quilt earlier, and also given a few paper piecing tips here. In case you are too lazy to go through those ( I would be, I know!) here is a quick checklist before you begin!

Paper Piecing Checklist

  • Have the fabrics been colour coded?
  • Has the machine stitch length been reduced?
  • Are the templates in order specified in the instructions?
  • Have you picked up the correct fabric pieces or strip/s? The fabric code number is printed on each piece position. It is a good idea to check that once in a while.
  • When you start, is your piece #1 placed on position #1 on the templates?
  • Is the wrong side of the fabric piece touching the paper?
  • Is the incoming piece placed right sides touching the previous one?
  • If strip chain piecing the templates, have you sufficient space between one template and the next?

Now to begin with the piecing!

  1. For best use of fabric, piece templates in the following order:

    D. E, F, G, H, I, A, B, C.

    Beginning with the bigger templates, you will be able to use the trimmed off scraps of fabric #1 (deep blue here).

  2. Piece templates I, J, K… to P.
  3. Attach the wedges Q to A, R to B, S to C…. X to H using the Master Template below as guide.
  4. Piecing the inner circle YZ: Use the 2.5″ squares of fabric 7, 8, 9 and 10 to make a 4-patch
    Southward Bound Mariners Compass - Round the Year Quilt

    Make a four patch. Dont worry about accurately matched centre.

    Fold the fabric circle Z twice to find the centre. Match centres and applique it to the centre of the 4-patch, using your favourite method.

    Southward Bound Mariners Compass - Round the Year Quilt

    Applique inner circle on centre

    Place card template / iron freezer template on wrong side of the fabric. Trim to size – remember to add the seam allowance! This makes the inner circle YZ.

    Place card template, add 1/4″ seam allowance

    Trim.

     

Assembly Instructions

Template Assembly Checklist

  • Have you a print out of the Master Template in front of you?
  • Avoid removing paper pieces before your template is ready to actually go under the machine! Arrange the templates, printed side up, using the Master Template as a guide.
  • If you do remove the paper, ensure you have the template (alphabet) name pinned to wrong side of the pieced template, to guide you during assembly.
  • At all times, keep the printed/ wrong side up, pick up the templates to be assembled, (remove the paper, if you wish to) sew them together. Put back in place, wrong side up. Go on to the next. At all times, remember to keep track of template names!

For this particular block, assemble the outer circle A to X and then attach it to the background square AA-AB. Applique the inner circle YZ last.

Refer to the Master template at all times during assembly to ensure all is in order! Reminder: If you take off the paper before assembly, remember to stick a post-it note or pin a piece of paper with the template name on the pieced template.

Assemble as follows:

AQ to I; BR to J; CS to K…and so on, till HX to P.

Join the adjoining wedges, anticlockwise when looking from the wrong/ printed paper side as follows:

AQI to BRJ to CSK

DTL to EUM

FVN to GWO to HXP

On flipping over to right (fabric) side, this is how your partly assembled templates should appear.

Complete the assembly to form a ring…

Applique to the background square. Finally, appliqué the centre circle YZ and trim excess fabric from behind the appliqued circle if you like.

And we are done – the Mariner mastered!

Before I sign off, here is a look at the Rainbow version of the block. Remember, the templates and instructions can be downloaded from the links at end of this post.

Download the files from these links in .pdf format. You would need Adobe Reader, available free online to read these files on your computer.

Instructions File Block07 Southward Bound containing the fabric requirement, piecing and assembly instructions.

Template File.1  Block07 Southward Bound containing paper piecing templates A to P .

Template File.2 Block07 Southward Bound containing templates Q to Z .

(You can access the patterns for the previous blocks here.) 

Lollipop Candy – Block Six of the `Round the Year’ Quilt

Lollipop Candy, Block Six Round the Year BOM 2014

Jaya Parker’s Test Block

Lollipop Candy is the sixth of the Blocks of the Month of the ‘Round the Year’ Quilt.

If you downloaded the templates for this block on 24/12/2014 or earlier, you need to make a change in Template F.  The revised templates have been uploaded on 24th December 2014
– Please start piecing from piece F2, that is, treat section F2 as F1, F3 as F2…till F12, which is treated as F11. 
– F1 is pieced as F12, F13 and F14 remain as heretofore.
The Master Template has been corrected in the Instructions File.

Like the previous blocks, this is also foundation paper and finishes at 18″ square with an inset circle of diameter 15″.

This block can be constructed, if you have the patience, by cutting and piecing over 350 rectangular pieces! But there are less tedious ways to make the block. There is the much simpler Bargello method; however, that involves a lot of fabric wastage and I have not yet tested it. So we will go with chain strip piecing for this block. Those of you who have pieced the Dahlia, Block One of this quilt, are familiar with the method.

This is designed in two colourways, here is the Dusk colourway, which uses 4 shades of blue fabric contrasted with orange and gold, with a touch of yellow to brighten up the proceedings, against a grey background.

 

Lollipop Candy, Block Six Round the Year BOM 2014

My fabric choice for the block…

I am using Fossil Fern by Bernatex as my fabric of choice.

Before you start cutting and piecing your fabrics, please read through the entire instructions – there are a few tips which may save you more than a little heartburn!

Printing Instructions & Templates

  1. These Instructions are downloadable in .pdf format from link at the end of this post. Please print the instructions file and keep at hand. I suggest you print at least pages 1 to 5 of the file for ready reference.
  2. Print paper piecing templates (link at end of this post) at 100% or actual size in portrait mode.
  3. Cut out the templates and place them in alphabetical order, in 4 sets:

    A to F;

    G to L;

    M to R; and

    S to X.

  4. Note that there are the following pairs of identical templates, A-B; C-D; E-F; G-H; IJ and so on till W-X.
  5. Y is the centre circle template.
  6. Z is one of the four background templates, in 2 pieces. Glue together on line indicated. AA, AB and AC are identical to Z, hence templates for these are not provided. Use Z to cut 4 ‘squircle’ pieces from the background fabric.

Fabric Requirement and Cutting Instructions

Lollipop Candy, Block Six Round the Year BOM 2014

Fabric Colour Code for the Candy Block

 

Tip – Pin a scrap of your fabric of your choice in Column 2 below, for ready reference.

Starch and press fabric before cutting.


You may also need to cut a few strips or need some scraps besides the above. Cut as you go, would be my suggestion.

Lollipop Candy, Block Six Round the Year BOM 2014

The Master Template – this is a mirror image! There is also an error in this diagram –  piece #F1 is  #F12; picees #F2 to #F12 are  #F1 to #F11! The downloadable Instructions File has the revised diagram.

The above Master Template is a mirror image, used to assemble the paper pieced block templates. 

Step by Step Piecing Instructions.

The piecing is chain strip piecing like we did for the Dahlia.

We begin with a reminder from the previous section; arrange the templates in 4 sets, in alphabetical order; as follows , A to F; G to L; M to R; and S to X.

Lollipop Candy, Block Six Round the Year BOM 2014

Sort the templates as instructed.

Arrange the fabric strips in the following order and pin them. Keep aside with each template set, using the table here as a guide:

Template Set Templates Fabric Strip Set. (The number refers to the fabric colour code)
Set 1 A to F 8,6,4,2,5,3,7,6,4,2,5
Set 2 G to L 6,4,2,5,3,7,6, 4,2,5,3
Set 3 M to R 2,5,3,7,6, 4,2,5,3,7,6
Set 4 S to X 5,3,7,6, 4,2,5,3,7,6,4

 

You may have noted that there are only 11 fabric strips in these sets, these will be used for Pieces# 1 to #11 in the templates. Pieces #12, 13 1nd 14 will be added after finishing this first lot of piecing on all 24 templates.

The piecing is chain strip piecing like we did for the Dahlia. I suggest we work with two sets at a time, to cut down trips to the ironing table and cutting mat. Piece the templates in alphabetical order.

Reduce the machine stitch length to between 1 and 1.5.

Chain piece the first two strips ( Fabric #8 and fabric #6) in Set1. And remember, right sides together, always!!!

Lollipop Candy, Block Six Round the Year BOM 2014

Chain piecing the templates saves time. Note the `staggering’ of Pieces #1 to right on the 3rd and 5th template from top.

This picture above shows your template set as it will look going under the needle. The pins are placed on the seam line for illustrative purpose only. Try to keep the seam consistent at about ¼”, move the template to adjust to the seam.

In the above picture you can see that A and B are identical. But, on template C, Piece#1 is staggered by one position away from outer curved edge (on your right) as compared to A and B. So when strip piecing, we stagger the template, and begin one step away from the outside edge! D is the same as C.

Again the position of Piece#1 on template E is further away from the outside edge when compared to Templates D and C, and you again need a change in position. F is identical to E.

Check Again!

  • Has the machine stitch length been reduced?
  • Are the templates in alphabetical order?
  • Have you picked up the correct fabric strip/s? Each piece position on the template carries the fabric code number. It is a good idea to check that once in a while.
  • Is your strip #1 placed on position #1 on the templates? Is the wrong side of the strip touching the paper?
  • Is the incoming strip placed right sides touching of previous one?
  • Have you sufficient space between one template and the next?

Once you have ticked this checklist, it is unlikely that you will need the services of The Ripper.

 

Chain piece the first two strips in Set2, again in alphabetical order, G,H, I, J, K and L. Here the first two strips are in fabric #6 and Fabric #4.

Take to your ironing table. Press on the seams to set.

Fold back the paper to expose the seam, and trim the seam to ¼” . Press open fabric strip.

Lollipop Candy, Block Six Round the Year BOM 2014

Trim seam to 1/4″ before pressing open the strip to Piece #2

Lollipop Candy, Block Six Round the Year BOM 2014

Cut apart the templates after every pair of strips, BUT ONLY AFTER you have pressed open the just joined strip!

Now, we cut apart the templates. Preserve all the scraps, they may be useful for piecing near the centre.

Don’t let the upcoming pictures confuse you, I had instructed my tester, Sobana,who has taken these photographs, to piece the templates from centre outwards. I changed the instructions here, because changing the piecing order ensures that there is sufficient space between templates. Your pieced block will be different from the pics below, as I have revised the design somewhat. But that is a story that deserves its very own blogpost.

Here you will see there is insufficient space between templates.

Lollipop Candy, Block Six Round the Year BOM 2014

Ouch! Not enough space between templates!

Another thing to remember, do not cut apart the templates without pressing open the strip!

Presuming you have everything in order, finish piecing the first two sets up to Piece/Position #11. Now it is the turn of sets 3 and 4. Piece these also for positions # 1 to 11.

Now judge what fabric scraps are left over. You may or may not need more strips. Cut as required and add piece #12 on all templates, working alphabetically. Refer to the colour guide, or the colour code on the template itself.

Position/ Piece#13 on all templates is the innermost piece, near the centre. Use the 2″ strip of Fabric #8 for Position12 on templates C,D, G, H, K, L, O, P, S, T, W AND X.Scraps of Fabric#2 (Deep blue here) can be used for Templates A,B,E ,F, I, J, M, N,Q R, U, and V. Sew on piece #14 and our templates are done!

Lollipop Candy, Block Six Round the Year BOM 2014

24 templates with 13-14 pieces apiece! How many pieces to boast of?

Assembly Instructions

Do not remove paper pieces before your template is ready to actually go under the machine! Arrange the 24 templates, printed side up, using the Master Template as a guide.

Lollipop Candy, Block Six Round the Year BOM 2014

Arrange the templates using the Master template as guide.

If you want to see if all is on order, pin each template to the adjacent one on the seam line and flip over as a whole. Flipping a template at a time can be confusing, as the Master template is a mirror image! My block tester friend tried it and was really upset, as this what she came up with!

 

Lollipop Candy, Block Six Round the Year BOM 2014

Oops! Be very, very careful when jassembling the templates. Which edges go together? Refer to the Master template!

 

So, at all times, keep the printed side up, pick up a pair of adjacent templates, remove the paper, sew them together. Put back in place, with the template name pinned on a piece of paper on each! Go on to the next pair. At all times, remember to keep track of template numbers!

I would suggest you finish the assembly in quadrants. Join quarter circles to the background squircles ( Square minus circle = squircle). Applique the centre circle the last thing!

Lollipop Candy, Block Six Round the Year BOM 2014

Feeling dizzy? It is easier than it reads! Sobana’s gorgeous block!

Unless of course, you want to piece the whole circle, and appliqué the small circle in the centre. And then, appliqué the whole Lollipop Candy to a background square.

Here are the links to the (revised) templates and instructions. You need Adobe Reader to be able to download these.

1. Paper Piecing Templates, Lollipop Candy – Block Six of Round the Year Quilt.

2. Instructions  (Fabric Requirememt, Cutting, Piecing & Assembly ) -Lollipop Candy – Block Six of Round the Year Quilt.